"Catching and Leading": by Shari O'Neal
A word of caution - always wear a helmet and sturdy boots when working around horses.I never recommend leaving a halter on a horse when they are out in the pasture unless your pasture is totally horse proof safe (nothing for the horse to get hung up on-including fence posts) Also, a horse can get a hind leg caught in a halter if he scratches his head and the halter is not adjusted properly. So, when catching a halterless horse in a pasture area, put your arm thru the halter and bring the halter up onto your shoulder. Take your leadrope, double it and place it around the back of your neck hanging loosely in front. This way your horse doesn't see any equipment in your hands and decide to run off because he more than likely doesn't want to be caught. As you approach the horse on his near side, let him know you are coming either by speaking or whistling. Watch for an ear or a look from the horse to acknowledge your presence and tell you it's OK. Approach the horse's shoulder from an angle. Do not approach him from the front or rear because his vision is impaired. Walk and speak normally. Do not RUN or CREEP. Do not SHOUT or WHISPER. When the horse turns to approach you, do not touch him on the nose or face. Stroke him on the neck while talking to him. Slowly reach for the leadrope that's around your neck and place it around his neck up high where the head and neck come together. Now you've got a good grip on him and you can control him if he takes a step in any direction.
While he's standing still, take the halter off your shoulder and gently put it on his head, buckle the buckles and snap the lead rope to the halter ring. Now you've successfully caught your horse and there was no emotional catastrophe.
As you step forward to lead him, place your right hand just below the hardware snap on the leadrope. Do not lead him with your hands on the halter - that's why they invented the leadrope. It's a safe way to lead your horse and lead it properly. Never coil the leadrope around your left hand. Loop it by folding and carrying it altogether in your left hand. Always face in the direction you want to go in, keep your head up, eyes front and walk positively towards your objective.
"A Mule - What Is It?" by Shari O'Neal
A mule is the offspring of a jackass and a mare. A hiney is an offspring of a stallion horse... and a she-ass, or "jennet" a breed of horse resembling a mule. Mama mules are extremely rare. In fact, cases of mules having offspring are so rare that only one scientifically documented case is on record. The holder of this distinction is Old Beck, the pride of the animal-husbandry department at Texas A. and M. University. No other college can boast of a mule who was a three-time mother.
Old Beck was an ordinary cotton mule who worked the fields for many years and gave birth to her first offspring at age 21. Her mate was an ordinary Jack and the foal was a female mule.
The genetics experts were still shaking their heads in wonder when Old Beck at age 22 brought forth her second offspring, a male. This was back in 1923.
In 1924 Old Beck gave birth to a third baby but the undeveloped mule only lived two days. It had one eye, in the center of the head, and almost no jawbone.
Old Beck died years ago but her mounted head is on display at the school.
**Fun Quiz**
1. Internal parasites gain entry to the horses body in the form of a)eggs_____, b)larvae_____, c)adults_____, or d)all the above____?
2. You can tell if your horse is a hotblood breed or a coldblood breed by taking it's temperature? True_____, False_____.
3. Name two hotblood breeds______________ and _______________.
4. What two seasons of the year present the highest risk of colic?_________ and _________. And why?_______________
5. What is the term used when a horse increases it's girth size by swelling their belly?__________.
6. In the wild, a band of horses is overseen by a _________ but the social structure within the band is female-dominated by the ______.
7. To feel satisfied, a horse needs to consume at least _____ of it's diet being hay.
8. The term "sacking out" is used to describe a horseperson snoozing in a hammock? True or False ______.
9. When a horse is a 5 year old, that is comparable to a 20 year old human. When a horse is 20 years old, what human age is that comparable to? ________.
10. Horses are at an important stage of development in their first _____ years of life and especially need the best parasite protection available to reach their full potential.
Answers:
1. Internal parasites gain entry to a horse's body in the form of all the above: eggs, larvae and adults
2. False: Whether a horse is a hot blood or cold blood has nothing to do with the temperature of your horse. It pertains to the breeding and the origin of the different types of horses.
3. There are only two hotblood breeds: The Arabians and the Thoroughbreds. The origin of these two breeds come from the hot deserts of North Africa and the Middle East. They are fine-boned, high-spirited and quick to react. These are horses of eastern or oriental blood.
4. The two seasons of the year that present the highest risk of colic are spring and winter. Lack of water or less water in the diet can cause an onset of colic. Also the lush grass in springtime.
5. Bloating is when a horse increases his belly size.
6. In the wild, a band of horses is overseen by the stallion but the social structure is dominated by the alpha mare.
7. To feel satisfied, the horse needs to consume at least half of it's diet being hay.
8. "Sacking out" is a process of systematically exposing the horse to a variety of objects so he overcomes his natural apprehension of strange things on, near or approaching his body.
9. When a horse is 20 years old, it's comparable to a 60 year old person.
++Fun Quiz++
***This Month's Fun Quiz***
1. If you need a horse to work on the farm, what kind of horse do you need?_____
2. To Harness your work horse, what is the first piece of harness you put on the horse? _____
3. What is the name of the part of the harness you pull the tail through? _______
4. After bridling your horse, what's the next step?_______
5. The name of the harness part that sits well down on the buttocks is?________
6. The traces go from the harness or collar and attach to what? ______
7. Name five breeds of draft horses: _____,______,_____,_____,______.
8. A work horse generally weighs between ______ lbs. and ______lbs.
Answers:
1. You need a draft horse to work on the farm.
2. The first piece of harness to put on would be the collar for a work horse, and the "saddle" for the driving horse.
3. The crupper is the part of the harness you pull the tail through.
4. The next step after bridling your horse would be to drive him outside or to where the cart or wagon is located.
5. The breeching is the part of the harness that sets well down on the buttocks.
6. The traces attach whatever you are pulling.
7. Five breeds of draft horses: Belgian, Percheron, Clydesdale, Shire, Suffolk Punch.
8. A work horse generally weighs between 1,400 lbs to 2,400 lbs.
"The Nature of the Horse" by Shari O'Neal
No one can train the horse not to be a horse. The very nature of this animal, as a prey species, is to look out for his own welfare. The horse is a big and powerful animal who's first instinct is to flee if he perceives he's in danger. YOU must learn and know this and accept it, because he cannot change his instincts.
There are two groups of animals: "Predator" or "Prey". The horse is a "Prey" animal. He is a member of the group that is eaten by the other group. The most important thought to remember about working or being around a horse is to communicate to him that we have no intentions of hurting or harming him.
Here's a listing of characteristics that protect the horse: Wide set eyes, powerful hind legs, acute hearing ( which is his best sense) sense of smell, big teeth, herd instinct and free shoulders that allow his front legs to run, romp and strike out!
Why does the horse want to "flee" or "fight"? Anything that seems sudden or strange to a horse could be interpreted to the horse as being a predator. When a horse is tied up, he is caught, restrained and has every reason to be terrified. We must never startle or threaten him. He needs to have the confidence of knowing that we mean him no harm. He needs to trust us because if he doesn't, we are just like a predator to him.
How do we make our horse seem safe and comfortable? Always let him know: who we are (we are not a predator), where we are - always talk and make sounds, especially happy sounds when you are around him and what we are doing.
How do horses like to be touched? You should stroke a horse, not pat him or slap him. The stroking reminds the horse of it's mothers tongue licking gently. If a horse can feel a tiny fly land on his sensitive skin, how do you think he feels when you slap at his skin or pat him too hard? Always walk up to a horse approaching his neck and stroke his neck. Or better yet, cup your fingers and make small needing motions with your fingers as if you were another horse's mouth gently grooming his friend. Resist the temptation of walking up in front of him and touching his face or nose. Did you know that a horse has two areas of blindness? Directly in front of him about three feet and directly behind him where his hips block the view.
The horse is a "herd" animal. The term is gregarious - tending to associate with others of one's kind. He knows there is safety in numbers and that's why they are interested in meeting back up with their buddies when you return from a trailride and put him back in the pasture with his "herd" or even when you try to ride him away from another horse or horses. You are asking him to do something against his instinct..
By understanding the "nature of the horse", you can communicate much better with him and that leads to a safe and positive experience.
"So You Want To Learn To Ride" by Shari O'Neal
Finding a good instructor is important. If you've never been on a horse before, you do not need to have an olympic level teacher. Sometimes this level instructor cannot relate to beginners because they are so advanced in their thinking. You need to be looking for an instructor who will teach a good basic foundation. You want an instructor who honestly enjoys people, horses and teaching.
You need an instructor who will teach basic knowledge about horses, how they think, what they are afraid of, and why they do what they do. How their senses of sight, smell and hearing work. They are large animals and very strong. They belong to the group of animals that gets eaten by the other group, so you need to know how to make the horse feel safe around you. You need to know how to touch them. You need to learn what you need to do, why you need to do it and how to achieve it. A good instructor will teach the student how to use our own intelligence to ride and care for the horse properly and safely You need to learn how to care for them, grooming, catching and leading, haltering and tying, saddling and bridling, mounting and dismounting, sitting correctly in the saddle and communicating with the horse. These subjects should be taught before the student ever mounts and begins instruction on riding.
Some instructors constantly teach "head up, heels down, sit straight, turn your shoulders, toes forward etc". Teaching posing often results in a stiff rider. It is difficult to concentrate on both posing and riding. Riders learn to ride by being taught exercises that enable them to FEEL. First you need to move WITH the horse. Then you direct the horse by interfering with his movement. This is what they call "riding from your seat".
A good instructor needs to be able to communicate clearly and logically and allows you to ask questions. Asking questions shows that the student has a real desire to learn. They must be honest with you, have happy students that are satisfied with how they have learned.
A credible instructor will allow you to sit and observe a lesson or two. Before you commit yourself to a series of lessons, take a couple of lessons to see if you like your instructor.
Get references from instructors and contact those students. Find out their complaints as well as compliments.
You need to do your homework before you just sign up for lessons with the first instructor you meet. Ask horse people, visit local stables, go to some horse shows, visit some tack shops, go on the internet and visit sites offering advice on the subject of horses.
Has the instructor completed any kind of training?
Is the instructor insured?
Is the facility neat, clean and the animals well cared for?
Is the tack well cared for, clean and safe?
Safety should be a good instructors main concern. Are all students wearing approved helmets, boots or shoes with a heel and smooth sole? Are they wearing well-fitted clothing?
Does the instructor speak clearly and loudly so students can hear?
Is the instructor giving you the full attention you paid for or is he/she distracted by phone calls, visitors, loose pets, or other frivolous matters that could be attended to after your lesson?
Riding is not cheap. Just like any other sport, you will have to invest in good equipment and riding apparel. Your instructor should be able to guide you in the right direction for the type of riding you want to do.
After your first couple of lessons, you should feel good about learning more and your confidence should grow with each succeeding lesson. It often takes years to become an excellent rider so don't feel discouraged if you are not an expert right away. There is so much to learn about horses so just relax and have fun!
"Linebreeding and Inbreeding" by Shari O'Neal
So many of the original renowned breeders did so much inbreeding and line breeding. Dilution of the blood of a specific horse happens as each generation is produced. An own son or daughter will have 50%, an own grandson or granddaughter will have 25% and an own great grandson or great granddaughter will have 12.5%.
Geneticists tell us that a parent must carry 10% of a desired blood in order for that blood to have any influence on the offspring. Therefore, blood from the great, great grandget would only be equal to 6.25% and would have NO influence in the blood. So, in order to preserve bloodlines and qualities/traits/characteristics of a particular horse, it is very necessary to do line breeding or inbreeding.
Here are the definitions for your easy reference:
Line Breeding: This is the mating of more distantly related animals. One or more common ancestors exist in the pedigree further down the line from the parents or direct siblings. The ultimate goal of line breeding is to carry on certain traits, strengthen the type and uniformity of the breed - thus improving the breed.
Inbreeding: The mating of two closely related horses. For example: mother to son, father to daughter, brother to sister, half sister to half brother. You want to concentrate on desirable genes to produce quality offspring; however, you must be careful not to produce faulty traits.
"Are You Contributing to the Slaughter of These Beautiful Creatures?" by Shari O'Neal
More than 50,000 pregnant mares are used in the production of estrogen - replacement drug, Premarin (Wyeth-Ayerst Labs). What Happens To Their Foals? Most go to slaughter!
Every year for six months, the estrogen-rich urine is collected from these mares. PMU (Pregnant Mares Urine) is one of the most prescribed types of medication in the USA. It is used by women to alleviate the symptoms of menopause and to prevent osteoporosis. Names of Premarin, Prempro, Premphase, Prempac, and Premelle. If you ever doubt where Premarin comes from, just break open a pill and smell it!
These mares are harnessed in narrow stalls, strapped into urine collection harnesses - unable to turn around, they get no exercise and are tethered by chains so short they cannot lie down comfortably.
There are over 500 farms - more than half in Manitoba, Canada and also many in North Dakota. In 1994 it was reported that PMU farms produced 27,000 foals and 2/3 of them were slaughtered. Many were dead before the farm sales and auctions. 22% of foals born April and May 1994 had died from starvation and/or exposure.
Can you imagine having an animal stand almost immobile for 6 months heavy in foal and then being turned out in a fenced lot or paddock in freezing cold weather with no shelter to deliver her foal?
Can you imagine standing in one place 24/7 for six months or more - no exercise - no grooming, just get to eat and drink?
Can you imagine any animal's baby starving to death or dying of exposure?
Can you honestly look into the eyes of a PMU farms mare or foal without feeling compassion for them? They are the by-product of this type of farming - they are the horrors.
In 2002 a health study revealed such drugs cause increased risk of heart attack, stroke, dementia, cancer and other serious health problems. Much of the sales have plummeted but the mares and foals are typically sold to slaughter. Can you say that you are an animal lover and then take your estrogen-replacement drug derived in such a cruel and inhumane way? Every woman has a choice! What's yours?
"You Can Make A Difference!" by Shari O'Neal
Humane horse organizations across the country are in urgent need for money, feed and labor. They desperately seek justice for severely neglected horses.
Unfortunately the "wheels of justice" do not move fast enough or even in favor of so many abuse cases.
Many cases that have made it into court have had disappointing results with animals being returned to their abusive owners. It's disheartening, especially to those who have gotten involved in rehabilitating severely neglected animals and have spent much money and time into their generous help.
But we should NEVER give up - no matter how many obstacles are thrown in our path. Speak up - voice your opinions! The old saying "The squeaky wheel gets the grease" prevails. WE have to be the voice for these magnificent creatures God has placed here on our earth and in our custody.
"The only way to make the mass of mankind see the beauty of justice is by showing them in pretty plain terms, the consequence of injustice" (Sydney Smith)
"A Word About Massage Therapy" by Shari O'Neal
Preventing disease and injury is much more economical than curing it. In today's world with prices escalating all around us, the old saying "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" rings ever so true.
Massage therapy helps increase the immune system and releases toxic buildup resulting in more energy, so we naturally will exercise more.
You and your horse can benefit greatly with therapeutic massage and equine sports massage increasing the range of motion, improving performance and preventing injuries.
"The Fresian Breed" by Shari O'Neal
The Friesian Breedof Horse:
Selectively bred for carriage driving, racing and circus performance, where their trotting ability and active action serve them well.
Fresians were developed in the Netherlands in the province of Friesland, and are descended from the "Great Horses" native to Northern Europe. These horses not only are strong, but agile enough to carry knights and their heavy armor on the Crusades. In the 1600's the Dutch horses were crossed with Spanish Andalusians and the resulting horses were called Friesians.
One noteworthy point is that for the last two hundred years the Friesian breed has been kept free from outside blood, making its genetic makeup very distinctive.
Frieisans are very consistent in appearance. They average 15-16 hands high at the withers, and weigh around 1,200 to 1,400 pounds.
In color they are solid black (although past registry records also list the color "blue") The mane and tail are long and wavy and there is "feathering" on the lower legs. The head is rather small and the neck is set high onto he shoulders.
Fresians are classified "watch" by the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy, which is an improvement as they nearly became extinct in the mid-1900's when numbers dropped to only 500 animals.
Thanks to a group that formed in Holland to promote the breed, interest was aroused and today there are about 8000 Friesian horses globally. Most of them, however, are in their native Netherlands.today there are about 8000 Friesian horses globally. Most of them, however, are in their native Netherlands
Friesian horses were brought to North America in the 1600's by Dutch settlers and it is generally thought these horses had an influence on several American breeds including the Morgan and the Standardbred. Unfortunately as can be the case when a breed is used mainly for crossing with other breeds, a separate purebred group of Friesians was not maintained and they all but disappeared in the United States until the 1970's, when the breed was introduced by American driving enthusiasts. In 1983 the Friesian Horse Association in the United States was founded.
Only those horses approved by Dutch standards may be registered, and breeding stallions must pass a thorough inspection of their conformation and performance ability. Today there are around 1,000 Friesians in the United States and numbers are increasing.
As was mentioned before, today's specialized society seems to require a special vehicle, tool, or gadget to see fruition of their efforts. For today's carriage driving enthusiast, the horse of choice would have to be the Friesian. Once seen, their elegance and gait are never forgotten!
About the Author: James Quinn.
James Quinn is a freelance writer for the Canton Independent Sentinel Newspaper. You may contact him at RR 1 Box 74, Granville Summit, Pennsylvania 16926
"Buying A Horse" Part 1 by Shari O'Neal
Buying a horse is not a 1, 2, 3 step process. It involves a lot of thought and planning on your part. I could write several articles just on this topic alone because each person is different, having various skill levels and each person has different wants and needs in choosing a horse. What kind of a horse are you looking for? What is the skill of the rider? Everyone who's looking for a horse needs to answer these two questions. You need to have a plan - know what type of horse you want and what type you don't want. Do not be in a hurry to buy a horse. You need to make sure that there is chemistry between you (the rider) and the horse. Don't buy the first horse you see. Do not buy more than you can handle. There are lots of horses out there for sale. You can find them with breeders, private sellers, dealers and auctions. All have their disadvantages but some are definitely better than others.
Before you go looking for a horse for yourself or child, have you done all your homework? Do you realize what a huge commitment owning a horse is? It is an investment of time and money. Daily chores of grooming, feeding, exercising and cleaning need to be done. Adequate shelter is a must. A pasture of a suitable size for daily exercise should be on your list of requirements. (At this point I am going to interject a really personal opinion of mine as sound advice to you. Do not consider boarding your horse at a stable that leaves the horses inside the majority of the time or all of the time. Horses are herd animals, they desire to be with other horses. Stables that keep their horses in 24/7 are actually cruel to their horses. They feed them probably twice a day. Once the feed is gone, the horse stands around with absolutely nothing to do until next feeding. This is how they develop bad habits such as weaving in the stall or pacing back and forth (like a caged animal) pawing, wood chewing and sucking wind. A horse literally eats approximately 18 hours out of 24. He is a grazer - he needs small amount of food over many hours for his digestive tract to work properly.) You also need to provide hoof care, veterinary and medical care plus the riding equipment you are going to need. Are you or the child ready for this kind of commitment?
If you are a first time owner - please avoid buying a young, untrained horse. The art of training a horse is a highly skilled endeavor. There have been so many people in the recent years that have bought teaching and training video tapes from highly skilled trainers and the next thing you know, this person is "hanging out a shingle" claiming to be the newest horse trainer on the block. This is a whole other topic which we don't need to get into at the moment. If you are an unskilled rider, please consider an older, reliable and quiet first horse. You can always upgrade later on.
You may want to take a person with more knowledge along with you on your trips to view horses. For example a riding instructor or a friend or neighbor who you trust as a competent horse person. Please refrain from taking the neighborhood with you. Leave your dog at home, try not to have little children with you. Make it a pleasant experience for the seller as well as you and the possible new owner.
If you are looking at prospects that are for sale from a private owner, make arrangements to see this animal first thing in the morning. Did the owner have to chase the horse to catch it? Did they have to tack it up and ride it before you got there?
How does the owner treat the horse? How does the horse react to grooming, saddling, bridling? Does the seller seem knowledgeable about horses as far as handling them in a kind yet firm manner without abusing the horse? All these factors will add up to how the horses attitude has been shaped . The horse's temperament should be your primary concern. Does it have a friendly look in it's eyes? Does it kick or bite or threaten you?
Does the horse cough or have a runny nose? Is the hair coat shiny or dull? Does it appear to be breathing hard? Does it stand with one foot in front of the other? Are their saddle marks on it's withers or saddle sores where the girth goes? Are the hocks and fetlocks filled with swelling? Do the hooves look healthy or are they cracked, dry and uneven? Are their white spots in the horses eye?
Let the seller ride the horse first. Don't attempt to ride a horse you are considering buying without having the seller ride him first. This will give you lots of indications as to his temperament, his schooling and attitude. Let the owner put the horse thru its paces and show you its skills. If you feel that this horse may possibly be a prospect for you, and you feel safe to ride it, by all means mount up. After you've adjusted the stirrups and gotten your seat properly, walk off. Do not go trotting around or cantering off. Get the feel of the horse. Rein him left and right. Does he respond to leg aids? Stop, walk off again. Repeat all these things and when and only when you feel comfortable at the walk should you begin the trot. Ask the horse gently to move faster. Don't wail him in the ribs - you might have an explosion on your hands. Does he pull at the bit wanting to gallop off? Does he toss his head, fighting the bit? Will he stop immediately when you ask him to?
Depending on your skill level, consider trying the horse in an environment that you will be using this horse in. Such as trail riding. Can you take this horse on a short trail ride either with the seller on another horse or by yourself. See how the horse reacts to walking away from the barn and his security, how does he react to road conditions, to mailboxes, streams, mudholes, cars, bicycles, dogs running out etc. Is he level headed or flighty?
Check out its living conditions - especially if its kept in a stall. Look for evidence of wood chewing, kicking the sides of the stall and evidence of tail rubbing. Does it look like the horse has been eating the bedding? What kind of bedding is used? Is their evidence of a path around the inside of the stall indicating the horse is a stall walker? Check the horses' droppings for evidence of undigested or unchewed grain or hay.
Ask about the horses worming record, when was the last time it was wormed and with what? How about vaccinations? Has the horse had any? This is usually a requirement for a boarding stable. Has it been tested for infectious diseases such as "swamp fever"?
Decide what you like about this horse and what you don't like. If you have a positive reaction on considering this horse for purchase, make some kind of arrangement with the seller to try this horse for at least a week at your home. Either pay for the horse in full and write a contract saying that your monies will be refund entirely if for any reason you feel that this horse will not be suitable after trying this horse for at least a week at your place. Also state that the horse must pass a veterinarian check (which you will gladly pay for)
If the seller agrees, make arrangements to get the horse to where his new home will be. Let the horse settle in to its new environment for at least a day before you ride it. Moving is very stressful to a horse and it will benefit you greatly if you allow it to adjust at least for a minimum of 24 hours to its new surroundings. I would suggest scheduling a vet check with your local veterinarian for sometime toward the end of your trial period. This is an investment that is well worth the monies spent. This will give you time to try out the horse and decide if he's the horse for you. Then, once you've come to that conclusion, you can have a veterinarian check the horse over for age, defects and unsoundness.
Next issue we will discuss expenses such as feed, bedding, equipment for maintaing the barn, grooming supplies, tack, farriers, veterinarian expenses, parasites, vaccinations. Do you want a registered horse? Do you want a mare or a gelding? What else to look for and more.
"Buying A Horse" Part II by Shari O'Neal
How much can you afford? Prices may vary from nothing to many thousands of dollars. The cost of a mature, nonregistered horse with some training and reasonable conformation ranges from about $1,000 to $2,000. Registered horses with show potential and some additional training often sell for many times this amount.
A horse is a long-term investment. Buy the best horse possible -- a good one eats no more than a poor one.
Feed and bedding (together called board), shoeing and veterinary expenses range of $5 to $12 per day. The cost of tack and equipment normally ranges from $500 to $3,000, depending largely on the type of saddle.
Upkeep and replacement costs and new equipment may be $100 to $500 a year. Personal items must also be considered.
When purchasing a horse at a sale or public auction, usually, no guarantees are made and horses cannot be returned or exchanged. Some horses are sent to such sales because there is something wrong with them. Certain problems can be disguised by drugging or skillful handling.
Private sales and breed sales are the safest types of auctions because breeders, who must maintain a good reputation, consign the horses.
What sex horse should you buy?
Generally, stallions are unsatisfactory as pleasure mounts and can be dangerous when handled by inexperienced riders. A stallion's handler can never relax and forget about the horse and many organizers of trailrides do not allow stallions.
A gelding or mare is more suited to the pleasure rider's needs. For steady dependability, a gelding excels. Mares are usually more excitable, especially when in heat. If you wish to raise a foal, of course, you must buy a mare. For breeding to be worthwhile, the mare must be of top quality. Don't expect to make a profit from a mediocre mare.
Do you want a registered horse?
There are both advantages and disadvantages in owning registered horses. A registered horse may enter both breed and open classes in competition, whereas an unregistered horse is restricted to open events. Registered horses usually have a higher resale value than do unregistered horses, but they are also more expensive. Because a horse is registered does not automatically mean it has better conformation, disposition or training than a less expensive horse of uncertain origin.
When you examine a registered horse, ask to see its registration certificate. Check the papers carefully to be sure the description fits the horse you are considering. Ownership transfers must be up-to-date. Don't buy a registered horse unless the papers come with it. You can send them to the breed association yourself as long as the owner has signed the transfer statement.
Health records: Consider the horse's general health. Has it been treated for parasites in the last three months? Has it been vaccinated within the last year for tetanus and eastern-western encephalomyelitis and equine influenza or other infectious diseases?
Has the horse been tested for equine infectious anemia? Horses purchased should be tested and shown negative. Depending on the area of the country you live in, please consult your local veterinarians to find out what is "necessary". Most vaccination shots require an initial injection followed by a booster shot later down the road. Here's a listing of possible considerations: Eastern, Western Encephalomyelitis, West Nile Encephalomyelitis, Tetanus, Influenza, Rhino pneumonitis, Rabies, Strangles, Potomac Horse Fever, Equine Viral Arteritis, Equine Protozoal Myelitis and Botulism.
Feet, legs and action: Observe the horse carefully as it is led from the stall. Be on guard for even slight indications of limping, stiffness or the favoring of a leg or foot.
Give particular attention to the legs, and examine the feet and legs with care. A horse is no better than its underpinnings, so sound feet and legs are vital. Any problem with a foot or leg is enough reason to reject the horse. Blemishes include abnormalities that do not affect serviceability. Wire cuts, rope burns, nail scratches or capped hocks fall into this category. An unsoundness will affect serviceability or usefulness of the horse.
Are the legs straight? Cannons should be set squarely below a flat knee. Tendons should be well defined. Fetlocks must be strong. Pasterns should be directly below the cannon, and sloping -- not straight -- between fetlock and hoof. The hoof should be well shaped and form good angles to the wall.
A sound horse walks correctly from the first step. Some unsound horses, after being warmed up, appear sound. Look closely at the fetlocks, pasterns and hocks. Any swelling should provoke serious doubts about soundness.
The head: Often an inexperienced person pays too much attention to the head. Just because the head is attractive does not mean that the rest of the horse is right. When the horse is led from the stable into the light, watch his eyes. The pupils will contract quickly if vision is normal. They should be clear with no cloudiness and no tearing. The eyes should be wide-set and large.
Do the incisors meet? If not, and the horse has a parrot mouth or undershot jaw, it probably cannot eat properly.
The body: Stand directly in front of the horse and compare the two sides. They should match. Muscles in one side are often large, particularly in the forearm. One of the flaws indicated by uneven development is a tendency to use only one lead. Just as humans are either right-handed or left-handed, a horse may favor one lead.
Repeat the inspection from directly behind the horse to detect hip and stifle trouble. A horse is an athlete and must have enough muscle to perform well, but the muscle must be of the proper kind. Avoid a horse with short, bunchy muscles if you are looking for a mount with agility and sustained speed over a long distance.
Next, examine the horse from the side. Shoulder and pastern angles and straightness of legs are of major importance in this view. Does the horse seem to be a bit long in the back? Chances are good that the shoulder is probably too straight as well.
Does it have enough withers to hold a saddle well? Are the withers too high and sharp? White marks at the withers or just behind the elbow indicate that the horse has old, healed saddle galls and girth chafes. There may have been problems in the past in fitting a saddle and keeping it in place.
Does the front half of the horse match the rear half? Lack of balance may not look the best but may not detract seriously from the horse's performance unless it is excessive. Remember that the main power and thrust come from the rear quarters and deficiency here is the most damaging.
Horse at work: Before you make a final decision about the horse, have it worked until it is warm. Notice its breathing. If its wind is broken, you can spot it now. If it doesn't want to leave the stable and strongly resists or tries to bolt for the barn, it is barn sour. Don't buy the horse unless someone in your family is an experienced horse handler.
Watch the horse as it is ridden. Does it take the proper leads when asked? Does it stop collected on its hindquarters or bouncing on its forelegs? Will it back readily with its mouth closed and head down? Does it toss its head or go quietly? Does it wring its tail?
Does it fight the bit or tuck its chin to avoid it? Does it move out freely with plenty of flexion in knees and hocks, or does it need a lot of urging? Does it require restraint? Does it have to wear any correctional equipment (martingales, tie downs, drop nosebands or similar items? Not all of this equipment is allowed in the show ring. Worse yet, it may be needed to prevent the horse from indulging in bad habits.
Ride the horse yourself, but remember that most horses will not perform at their best for a strange handler. However, riding it yourself gives you the chance to discover small details or to prove what you might have suspected. Does it handle easily? Is it responsive, especially to leg pressure? How sensitive is it? Does it accept handling by a stranger or is it unduly upset?
Ride the horse at least once and preferably several times if you think that you would like to purchase it. It is not fair to the horse to judge its performance in one short ride with a complete stranger in the saddle. When it becomes used to you and you both relax, you will be able to evaluate it more fairly. However, if there are several reasons for rejecting it and its performance is poor, look elsewhere.
"What Is The Lifespan of a Horse?" by Shari O'Neal
When a horse lives to 20 or 25 years, you can consider that a good life for a horse. Thoroughbred lifespan is approximately 20 years. Crossbred horses tend to live slightly longer. Working horses tend to be old at the age of about 17 because usually their legs start failing. Gray hairs begin to appear on the face, expecially around the muzzle and the eyes and a deepening above the eyes is apparent. The eyelids become wrinkled and there is a looseness in the lips which causes them to hang down floppily from the mouth. The horses back becomes more and more hollow and it's gait stiffens.
The world record age for a horse is 62 years. In England a horse called Old Billy was born in 1760 and died in 1822. They worked him towing barges.
The oldest pony on record lived in France to the age of 54 years and the oldest Thoroughbred racehorse lived for 42 years in Australia.
Here's a comparison that compares the age of a horse to that of a human:
When a horse is 5 that's comparable to man at age 20
When a horse is 10 that's comparable to man at age 40
When a horse is 15 that's comparable to man at age 50
When a horse is 20 that's comparable to man at age 60
When a horse is 25 that's comparable to man at age 70
When a horse is 30 that's comparable to man at age 80
When a horse is 35 that's comparable to man at age 90
"Grooming Your Horse" by Shari O'Neal
Grooming Your Horse:
Proper grooming is for your horse's comfort and appearance. Grooming keeps a horse healthy by stimulating circulation and improving muscle tone. A horse should be groomed daily and always after exercise or work.
Never put up a horse for the night until he is thoroughly cleaned and cooled.
A horse breathes partially through his skin and a clean skin, free of dust, parasites and disease facilitates this process. Brushing distributes skin oils throughout his coat. After a long ride, particularly in warm weather, never take the saddle off immediately after dismounting. Loosen the girth and allow a few minutes for the horse's natural circulation to be restored. In cold weather, never let a horse stand while sweating. Put a blanket or cooler on him and walk him slowly until he is cooled. You can groom your horse in a stall but it is preferable to take him out into a wide aisle and cross-tie him. Cross-ties are often hung in the center aisle, which then doubles as a grooming area. It provides plenty of room to move freely on both sides of the horse.
Here's what's needed:
Dandy Brush (stiff)
Body Brush (medium
Soft Brush
Rubber Curry Comb
Bucket with warm water
Lanolin-based Shampoo
2 Sponges
Sweatscraper
Terry Cloth Towel
Hoof Pick
Hoof Dressing and Brush
Mane and Tail Comb
Scissors
Clippers (optional)
Fly Wipe or Fly RepellentBegin by putting the horse in a halter (never a bridle). Begin on the horse's left side or the "near" side as it is called.
Stand near the horse's side with the grooming brush in your right hand and the curry comb in your left. Starting at the top of the horse's neck just below the ears, use the curry comb in a circular moton to loosen dirt, dust and manure. Continue down the neck and over the body.
Curry softly,
Curry please,
But never curry
Below the knees.
Brush his neck, body and hindquarters thoroughly. Be gentle and use the curry comb only on the horse's body never on his head or legs. Use it lightly to loosen dried mud or hair matted from sweat. You can curry in all directions, but brush only in the direction in which the horse's hair grows. Be sure that his back is completely clean and dry, to avoid saddle sores. Clean grooming brush and curry comb frequently. When the horse's body is thoroughly clean, brush all four legs vigorously with the grooming brush, stoking downward. Be sure to clean the back of his pasterns. Remove grass or manure stains with a sponge and warm water containing a lanolin-based shampoo. This is also a good time to clean the underside of his tail, wipe very gently a mare's teats and/or a gelding's sheath. Don't forget to rinse. Wipe the horse's face with a grooming cloth or very soft brush. From time to time you'll want to trim the horses' whiskers and fetlocks with scissors or clippers.
With a clean sponge, carefully wipe his eyes, ears and nostrils. Untangle or pick the mane, tail and forelock with your fingers, brush and then use the comb.
Clean out the horse's hooves. You will be removing bedding, dirt, small stones and manure that can become packed in causing slowing of circulation. You will also be removing disease causing bacteria. Use a hoof pick to clean his feet and then apply a lanolin hoof dressing right up to the coronet band. In the fly season, finish the grooming by rubbing or spraying a fly repellent on him. Remember, you are using a chemical, so be sure to follow the directions exactly.
"Flex Trees" by Shari O'Neal
"Flex" Tree Saddles:
This saddle tree is a fairly new invention in today's marketplace that is fast becoming very popular. Manufacturers are purporting that the tree will move more with the horse and also fit a larger majority of horses. They also claim that a saddle built with a "flex" tree allows a "close contact" and is also light weight. This is a nice feature for pleasure or trail riding, but it's lighter construction may put limits on it's long-term durability. Flex" tree saddle trees are usually made of wood or ralide - a plastic material. This tree style has a rigid fork and cantle, but the bars of the tree are usually made of flexible plastic, rubber or a combo of leather and synthetic materials. Because of the popularity of the premise of this type of saddle tree, a wide range of saddle styles and brands have been manufactured. There is also a wide range of pricing along with quality and/or the lack of quality. Please note: a "flex" tree does not automatically guarantee a perfect fit. HorseLoversHeadquarters flex tree is a molded, one-piece designed tree. It carries a 10 Year Guarantee because there are no springs, no fiberglass, wood or bullhide to break, crack or stretch. This 100% flexible tree is not affected by heat, cold or moisture. This guarantee is far superior to other tree warranties.
You can order full quarter horse or semi-quarters horse bars in 6.5" or 7" gullet with the flex tree. Sorry, at this time, the flex tree is not available in draft horse saddle styles; however, the 7" gaited flex tree is available in a 16" or 17" seat size for an additional cost of $35.00 if you order a gaited saddle style for your draft horse.
"De-Worming Tips" by Shari O'Neal
Horses need to consume the right dose of wormer in order to be effective.- Use a weight tape and accurately record your horse's weight.
- Adjust the wormer syringe for your horse's weight. If in doubt, worm for 50-100 pounds extra.
- Make certain the horse's mouth is empty before you administer the dewormer.
- Hold the horse's head up and push the tube into the mouth. The base of the tube should be pushing on the corner of the mouth. Deposit the paste on the back of the tongue.
- Press the end of the tube against the tongue and rotate it to wipe off the remainder of the dewormer onto the tongue.
Consider having a quantitive fecal done on your horse to see if deworming is necessary.- Mature horses with good immune systems need deworming if egg counts exceed 200 eggs per gram.
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Young horses (less than two years old) and debilitated older horses should be dewormed if egg counts exceed 100 eggs per gram.
Deworming Schedules:There is no perfect deworming schedule. They need to vary due to: l. Dewormer used.- Moxidectin every 90 days
- Ivermectin every 60 days
- Pyrantel (Strongid) every 42 days
- Fenbendazole (Panacur or Safeguard) every 42 days.
2. Age of horses:- Young, run down and older horses may need to be treated more frequently, healthy mature horses less frequently.
3. Degree of pasture or stall contamination:
- Large pastures with few horses less often.
-
Small pasture with lots of horses more often.
4. Type of worms present.
5. Time of year (less in winter, more often in spring and early summer)
Fall (late October early November)
Use Quest Plus or Equimax. Do not substantially overdose Quest (moxidectin) dewormer. Use a weight tape and dose for that weight. Don't underdose trying to be safe.
Winter (three months after fall worming)
Worm with Fenbendazole (Panacur or Safeguard) or Pyrantel pamoate (Strongid P). Double dose Pyrantel Pamoate if tapeworms are a problem.
Spring (May)
Use an ivermectin product. There are many name brands. (Zimectrin, Bimectin, etc.)
Summer (July)
Repeat fenbendazole or Pyrantel pamoate. (whichever one you did not use in the winter)
A single adult horse on pasture may only need wormed spring and fall. Young horses pastured heavily may need one or two additional wormings during the summer. Note: This article was prepared with the help from the Troy Veterinary Clinic, Troy, Pa. 16947.
"The American Quarter Horse" by Shari O'Neal
Foundation stock of the Quarter Horse started long before the colonial days when the Spanish explorers and traders shipped the Arab, Barb and Turk breeds. The top stallions were crossed with mares from England. This resulted in a compact, heavily muscled horse that could run short distances faster than any other horse. Match racing in colonial America is where the history of the Quarter Horse began. But as America grew, the Englishmen longed for more grueling races of longer distances which did not suit the Quarter Horse. So, the breed transitioned into a working breed.
In the 1800's the westward movement took the Quarter Horse to the cattle ranches. The Quarter Horse proved to have "cow sense" (the ability to judge the actions of cattle) thus proving that this horse was a valuable asset to ranchers and trail driving.
At the approach of the 20th Century, the railroad was providing for the movement of herds of cattle thus a decine in the use of the Quarter Horse. A handful of ranchers were concerned that if something was not done to preserve the breed, it might not survive. They organized in Fort Worth, Texas in 1939 and laid the groundwork for the Quarter Horse Association. A year later they established a registry known as the American Quarter Horse Asociation. Wimpy, from the King Ranch, received the number 1 because he was the Grand Champion Stallion at the 1941 Souhwestern Exposition and Fat Stock Show.
The American Quarter Horse Registry has grown three times faster than any other breed registry. The Quarter Horse is like no other horse. Their endurance and performance in all facets is unmatched, No breed can match it for versatility. The "American spirit" has possibly filtered into this horse's veins as it was the first horse true to the continent and known as "The horse America made".
***This Month's Fun Quiz***
1. List at least five different face markings.
2. List at least five leg markings.
3. Can you list at least two Appaloosa color patterns?
4. How about a couple of Pinto color patterns?
5. What are two or three body markings of the Dun horse?
6. Name at least two conformation faults with the forelegs.
7. What problems can occur because of the above conformation faults?
8. Name at least two conformation faults of the hind legs.
9. What problems can occur because of the above conformation faults you've pointed out?
10. Can you explain how toe-in and toe-out alignments of the front legs affect the horse's "way of going"?
"PMU Horses" by Shari O'Neal
For over 60 years, farmers and ranchers in Manitoba and Saskatchewan, Canada and in our own North Dakota USA, have bred mares purposely to create pregnant mare's urine. This urine is used to create a hormone therapy drug by scientists at Wyeth Pharmaceuticals. Peak production was realized in the late 1990's and early 2000's with more than 400 ranches and over 40,000 broodmares.
Since 2003, the increase for this drug has been drastically reduced because of combined efforts by the Women's Health Institute and the Food and Drug Administration. Wyeth Industries officials cut back on contracts thus resulting in a decline to approximately 70 farms in Manitoba. Foal production has dropped back to about 5,600 yearly.
The foals created from these births are mainly draft horse crosses, along with Quarter Horses and CanAm Sport Horses. Finding good homes for these foals has always been of great concern to horse lovers and animal rights groups. ALL PMU foals are now micro-chipped and the ranchers are not allowed to sell these babies to slaughterhouses or take them to auction.
"Haltering & Typing Part I" by Shari O'Neal
There are Advantages and Disadvantages of following types of halters:
Shipping halters are usually made of burlap or jute fiber and have a string throatlatch. They are lite weight and inexpensive. They cannot be adjusted very well, are difficult to keep in place on the horse's head and they lack strength.
Cotton Rope halters are usually made of cotton and are often braided. They are relatively inexpensive and readily adjustable. They also come in a variety of colors and sizes. On the downside, when exposed to water, they shrink and they are hard to keep clean.
Nylon Rope halters are similiar to the nylon web for strength but fashioned round like a rope. They are strong, come in a variety of colors and sizes, clean easily and are affordable. Unless they have a leather break-away crownpiece, they are probably not going to break in the event of a catrastrophe. Nylon Web halters are widely used and most common. Nylon does not shrink but over time they have the tendancy to stretch especially the noseband and crownpiece.
Leather halters are durable and stylish. Properly cleaned and oiled they will remain supple for years. Too much oil though will rot the stitching and cause the leather to become sticky and it will stretch. Leather halters will pick up mildew if allowed to remain in damp conditions. Leather is also pricey.
Haltering a horse is easy if the horse has manners and has been trained properly. Approach the horse on it's left side carrying the halter close to your body and the leadrope doubled and over your shoulder or around the back of your neck. Walk up to the horse's neck and stroke it gently while taking the leadrope and gently placing it over the horse's neck and holding it like a noose with your right hand to keep the horse from moving off. Your left hand holds the crownpiece of the halter and gently slips the halter over the nose and pulls the entire halter up over the off side ear and then the near side ear. At this point, if you haven't done so already, adjust the halter to fit the horse properly. The crownpiece adjustment determines how high up on the horses face the noseband will lie. The noseband should be no more than two inches below the bony point of the cheekbone. Also, the noseband should not be too tight or too loose around the horse's nose. The general rule of thumb is that two fingers turned sideways should be a good measurement between the horses nose and the halter. If the halter has a crownpiece with adjustments on both sides, make sure each side is in the same hole for even fitting. Snap the jowl strap in place, attach the leadrope and off you go.
When putting horses out in a pasture, you should not put them out with a halter on unless you will be watching them more often than not. Halters catch on trees and tree branches, fence posts, machinery in pasture (this is a no-no) and sometimes a horse's hind foot when he reaches up to scratch an ear for example.
"Haltering & Typing Part II" by Shari O'Neal
Tying the horse:
All horses should learn to stand tied and stand quietly. But here again, we are asking a horse to do something that his instinct tells him can be life threatening to him. When the horse realizes he is tied, he goes into panic mode and his response is to pull back.
I assume that you've conditioned your horse to the "pressure cues" prior to teaching him to stand tied to an object. Common sense with safety as a major concern for both the horse and you, should be your utmost priority. When you tie a horse to stand in one place, you must use a knot that can be "untied" quickly. You must use a knot that can be "untied" quickly even if the horse is pulling back on the rope. This is called a "quick-release knot".
If you are tying your horse to a pole, a post or an object where the rope can slip down to a lower level, you will need to learn to make a "combination knot". These knot styles are difficult to describe without drawings, and I cannot do drawings for the purpose of this article. Please visit a library or visit the internet to learn to tie these knots by reading and practicing how to do it using illustrations of the different types of knots.
A few rules to follow would be:
Tie the horse higher than the height of it's withers
Use 2 to 2 1/2 feet of rope between the halter ring and the knot itself
Halters, tie ropes and the objects to which they are to be tied should be strong and sound to minimize any chance of the horse breaking free
Never tie your horse with the reins and bit in his mouth
Unless a horse is tied in a stall, it should not be left unobserved for long periods of time
"Fall Horse Care" by Shari O'Neal
Between the rain, the mud, the howling winds and the snow and the ice, you and your horse are going to have a lot to deal with. When we are riding and caring for our horses everyday during the riding season, it's easy to provide that loving care for them because we want to make sure our horse is in good health and is fit for whatever we may ask of him. But when the rainy, wet fall weather arrives, too often most horses are left out in the pasture and we only see them when darkness falls or it's feeding time.
Horses are well equipped to handle severe winter conditions. They are far more stressed by heat than by cold. The winter coats that they grow are amazingly efficient at helping them retain body heat. The dwindling hours of daylight is what triggers your horse to grow it's winter coat. Because of the thick density of this coat of hair and the way the hair grows, the horse can literally stand out in a snow storm, ice forming on their back, yet they do not become chilled. Driving rain or sleet is a different story though. This cold, wet weather flattens the hair coat and the horse becomes chilled. This combination of cold wind and rain or sleet is probably the worst case scenario for your horse. Wet weather can bring on a case of "rain rot" or "rain scald". This is caused by a bacteria that lives in the outer layer of the skin. This bacteria causes crusty scabs which vary in size from tiny pin-point scabs to large crusty scabs. Rain rot is not an itchy skin problem.
If the bacteria is caught in it's early stages, it's possible to remove the scabs with shampooing and grooming the horse, however, when the infection goes deeper into the layers of the skin, antibiotics are required.
Do a hands-on examination along your horses back all the way to the croup because of the horses's full coat of hair. An untreated skin condition will only get worse if left untreated.
"What Can You Tell By A Horse's Face?" by Shari O'Neal
Horses have a complex yet subtle body language. They convey their moods and emotions thru facial signals as well as other bodily movements.
The young foal, when it's showing it's submissive nature, opens it's mouth, draws back the corners of it's mouth and opens and shuts his jaws in a "snapping" motion. Sometimes the teeth hit each other and other times he just opens and closes the mouth indicating to a strange horse or a larger horse that comes near him that "I'm just a baby, please don't hurt me". This action usually goes away by the time the foal is three years of age.
Then of course there is the facial indicator of warning of a possible attack. The horse actually opens it's mouth and shows it's teeth, and uses this as a threat of contact. Usually this is enough to scare off an opponent without actually engaging in a bite.
Horses have a tight-lipped or stiff mouth when they are in pain, are fearful or tense. When they are relaxed or totally wiped out - sometimes their bottom lip will sag and droop down.
When the horse curls his top lip up to show his upper teeth and gums as he stretches his head forward, he is reacting to an aroma that he more than likely savors and wishes to inhale to a greater extent.
Flared nostrils indicate excitement or intense emotion as well as deep breathing. A sick horse or a horse in pain will often have flared nostrils.
And, of course, the horse can wrinkle it's nose when it's disgusted about something.
We've talked about the mouth, the lips, the teeth and the muzzle, but we haven't said anything yet about the eyes. When a horse's eyes are closed, it usually means it's tired, exhausted, sleeping or in pain. Wide open eyes are an indication that the horse is fearful, afraid or anxious about something. And a horse that shows white around the eyes as they bulge and turn backward shows an angry horse. But please don't think that any horse who shows white around it's eyes is angry. I have a mare who shows allot of white, but she's not angry. It's just her physical makeup. Watch the horses' ears that accompany the angry eye.
"Famous Horses" by Shari O'Neal
Because this is such a large topic, I have broken it down into: Famous Race Horses, Famous Military Horses & Famous Horses in TV and Films.
a. Famous Race Horse is Man O' War He remains to this day as the measuring stick of greatness in horse racing. His lifetime record was 21 starts with 20 wins and a second place and he retired as the leading money winner in America at the time. He passed away at the age of 30 from a failing heart. For the first time in history, the great horse was embalmed and laid to rest in a specially made casket lined with his racing colors. Today his grave is marked by the famous Man O' War statue by Haseltine at the Kentucky Horse Park.
b. Famous Military Horse is Comanche, only survivor of the Battle of Little Bighorn June 25, 1876. A mustang - born about 1862 and captured in a wild horse roundup then sold to the US Cavalry for $90. He stood 15 hh and was the favorite horse for Captain Myles Keogh. After Custers defeat, Comanche was found two days later suffering from wounds. He was transported almost 1,000 miles to Fort Lincoln to recuperate. In 1888 the Cavalry moved to Fort Riley, Kansas and Comanche went with them. On November 7, 1891 Comanche died of colic, but he was preserved and is currently on display in a humidity controlled glass case at the University of Kansas Museum of Natural History, Dyche Hall, Lawrence, Kansas.
c. Famous TV/Film Horse is Black Beauty . 8 feature length films including an animated version and at least 4 television series have been made from Anna Sewell’s classic story. The famous Fury starred as Black Beauty in the 1946 version of the story and he makes this film well worth seeing. In 1994 a new star emerged named "Docs Keepin Time". Docs had an unsuccessful racing career but he sure was a star in this rendition of Black Beauty.Docs Keepin Time has also played the part of the rearing horse in the Busch Beer commercials, performed in a rock video and was the star of the television series, “The Black Stallion”. He also played the part of “Gulliver” in the film, The Horse Whisperer.
d. Famous Race Horse is Seabiscuit. In the latter half of the Depression, Seabiscuit, an undersized and crooked-legged horse, had become a household word in America. Born May 23, 1934, retired to Charles Howard's Ridgewood Ranch April of 1940 and died May 17, 1947 at 14 years of age. A grandson of the famous MAN O' WAR this little guy had the determination and the spirit to win. And win he did. In the year 1937, he broke five track records, made more money than any other horse in racing that year, and won at least 10 major events.
e. Famous Military Horse is Bucephalus. The famous horse ridden by Alexander the Great. Legend says that at the age of eleven, Bucephalus was unable to be ridden and he "devoured the flesh of anyone who tried". However, Alexander who wasn't even a teenager at time, was interested in this black horse and cleverly won the horse's trust by turning the horse into the sun so he could not see his shadow which was causing him to spook. His breeding is undetermined but some believe Bucephalus was of Akhal-Teke breed, while others argue he may have been an Arabian. In a recent movie, Bucephalus was portrayed by a Friesian. Bucephalus died when he was approximately 29 years old when he was fatally wounded in the Battle of Hydaspes. Alexander founded a city in honour of his famous horse and called in Bucephala.
f. Famous TV/Film Horse is Mr. Ed. Who would believe that a horse could talk? Mr. Ed was foaled in 1949 in El Monte, California, He was a beautiful golden palomino show horse known as Bamboo Harvester. Around the age of nine he was sold to the film company and his role as the talking horse emerged. This TV series was about an architect, Wilbur Post who bought a house and Mr. Ed was left there by the previous owner. Falling in love with the horse rather than getting rid of him, Wilbur discovered that Mr. Ed could talk, but only to Wilbur. Ed was not content being a horse, he wanted to do human things. His clever antiques made this show one of America's best loved TV series. The syndicated series aired on CBS in October 1961. Filming approximately 144 thirty minute episodes, the show lasted five years. Mr. Ed loved peanut butter and this would cause him to move his mouth so much they could usually film his talking horse character with one shot. In 1968 Mr. Ed was 19 years old and suffered from a variety of problems including a broken leg. He was put to sleep discreetly with no publicity.
g. Famous Race Horse: Bold Ruler sired 25% stakes winners and produced 11 champions, including Hall of Famers Gamely and Secretariat. He led America's sire list eight years; only Lexington in the 19th century led more times.
In 1966 Bold Ruler was the first sire whose progeny earned more than $2 million in a season. His offspring earned a million or more each year from 1964-70 (inclusive), also a record. Bold Ruler died at Claiborne Farm in 1971.
Bold Ruler was inducted in the Hall of Fame in 1973.
h. Famous Military Horse: Stonewall Jackson - Old Sorrel - formerly a Union officer's mount, was acquired by Jackson at Harpers Ferry when she was about eleven years old. Because the mare was so small that Jackson's feet nearly dragged the ground, she was often known as Little Sorrel. Little Sorrel Lane in Somers, Connecticut, commemorates the animal Jackson was riding when he was mortally wounded.
i. Famous TV/Film Horse: Fury was known as "Highland Dale" where he lived on a farm in state of Missouri in the United States of America. Fury was only 18 months old when he was discovered by Ralph McCutcheon a trainer of animal motion picture stars. The famous television series Fury, starring Peter Graves as "Jim" & Bobby Diamond who played his son "Joey", William Fawcett who was "Pete" first ran on NBC Saturday Morning, 1955 - 1960. It was syndicated from 1959 on, under the title "Brave Stallion" then Rerun on NBC 1960 - 1966.
Fury was 26 months old when starred in "Black Beauty" . Also Fury was in a movie called "Gypsy Colt", this is where Fury was known as "Gypsy". That made Fury top animal star. The script requirement asked for many tricks and Fury was ready with every one. After the success of those movies Fury was cast as the black stallion in "Giant" .
Fury suffered from heaves for most of his life. This is a disease similar to asthma.
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